There are popular lists of and documentaries on “100 places to see before you die”, famous pilgrimage sites, royal houses, etc. But I doubt if many/any of these lists include one address: 54 A, A.J.C Bose Road (Lower Circular Road, Calcutta/Kolkata. It is an address internationally known, yet many visitors (especially Indians!) overlook it in favor of “tourist” attractions. It is the “Motherhouse” of the Missionaries of Charity, where Blessed Mother Teresa lived (from February 1953) and where she is now buried---the center for her order which is spread over the world, wherever there is need of any kind.
Everyone knows of her incredible work, so I will not go into that, but recount my visit to the house, which is truly a pilgrimage spot.
A narrow lane leads to the simple door of the gray colored building. A plain wooden board announces:
54 A
Mother Teresa M.C.
IN (see photo above)
And indeed, she is there, in every room and every sister, who is carrying on her mission. The room housing her tomb sees a steady stream of visitors from every religion, class and nationality, all of who come to pray at her tomb, and know that their faith will be rewarded. The tomb is of simple white marble, with the words of Jesus inscribed: Love one another, as I have loved you. A sister lovingly “writes” a quotation every day on the tomb, with fresh marigolds. On my last visit there was “You are precious to Him.” Visitors write their petitions and leave them in a little box placed on the tomb, to be prayed over. They can also pick up the "miraculous medal" that Mother always distributed. There are benches lining the walls, where one can sit and pray, where the din of the Kolkata traffic seems to recede with the strange sense of peace that pervades the place. In one side of the room, there is a glass cased figure of Mother reaching out to a baby, a reminder of the number of orphans who have been given a new lease of life through her “Shishu Bhavans.” Mass is also held in this room.
Next door is an exhibition of photographs and articles belonging to Mother Teresa…a treasury of photographs from every stage of her life, personal items ( including her worn out bag, simple sandals, utensils, hand written records/accounts, etc.) –a glimpse of a life so simple and shorn of any comfort, that it almost impossible to imagine. And this is the legacy she has passed on to her sisters, who dress and live and work in the same spartan manner. There is also a reliquary: a precious drop of her blood. A small speaker in a corner is labeled with “Mother’s voice,” and on request, the sisters will play a recording of an interview given by her.
Opposite the two rooms, a small flight of stairs leads to the tiny room where mother lived and worked---a narrow wooden bed, a table and bench, another small table and stool are the only items of furniture. A statue of Mary, Our Lady, stands on one table. On the wall next to her bed hangs a crown of thorns, apparently woven by Mother herself. The tiny room is indeed a shrine, and a reflection of a life dedicated solely to God and the poor.
The Chapel on the first floor, where the sisters pray, is open to anyone. The first thing that strikes a visitor is a figure of Mother Teresa, bowed in prayer---so lifelike that it is difficult to imagine that it is just a statue, specially when there are sisters sitting around, motionless in prayer.
I have visited Motherhouse a few times, but it was finally on the last visit that I was blest in meeting for the first time Sister Nirmala, M.C, who succeeded Mother in 1997 as Superior General. It is only very recently that she has handed over the reins, despite being re-elected for a third term.
I was in Kolkata for two days, (one of the main purposes of my annual trip is to
visit Mother’s tomb), and on the first day, was very disappointed to hear that she was resting, and not meeting visitors. The next day, almost miraculously, Sr.Nirmala stood in front of me, thanks to Sr.Nicole, whom I shall talk about later. Petite and frail, with the years of untiring work taking a toll on her health, she radiates a mixture of saintliness, elegance, strength and power that is almost palpable, yet indefinable--it is difficult to describe the impact she makes. The Padma Vibhushan awarded to her this year may be a recognition of her great work and leadership, but even greater is the immense love, respect and gratitude that she commands from people around the world.
Sr. Nicole too is an exemplary and wonderful person, yet, like Sr.Nirmala, totally unassuming. Last year when I visited the Motherhouse, I asked to meet Sr.Nirmala, who was away. Instead, I met Sr.Nicole, who was officiating, and was struck by her compassion, thoughtfulness and patience. This was reinforced on this visit--despite a very busy schedule, she gave me a lot of her time to talk and pray with me.
I can indeed say I have been doubly blessed in not just visiting Blessed Mother’s tomb, but in being in the presence of such holy people. My feelings were very aptly summed up by the Superior General of the Christian Brothers when he heard of my experience: "Isn't it wonderful that there are human beings who allow us a glimpse of the goodness of God"!
The blessings of a visit to the Motherhouse have to be experienced to be believed!
A visit to the official website of the order is also rewarding:
http://www.motherteresa.org/
